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Solid State Rectifier Direct plug-in replacement for 5AR4, 5U4 and 5Y3 rectifier vacuum tubes in amplifiers with center tapped secondary power transformer.

Use when less 'sag' is desired in the power supply; just switch back to the tube rectifier when 'sag' is desired. Ordered this solid state rectifier SSR replacement, and it worked exactly like the real thing. Be advised, though, that if your filaments are series, you might have a problem replacing the 5AR4 with this, since it has no filament to slightly alter the series filament voltage for all the other filaments.

My unit's transformer fortunately had separate 6. Skip to main content. Log in or Register to access your account. Please enable Javascript to continue using this site without issues. Leave this field blank. In stock. My Project Lists You must be logged in to add items to a project list.

5u4 vs 5ar4

Product Measurements click to expand Product Measurements No measurements are currently available for this product. Please contact us if you have any questions. Packaging Information Packaging Dimensions 1. Weight Packaging 0. Add a review. David Yates - December 21st, Questions and Answers Click each question to see its answers. Staff Member. This will most likely not prevent background hiss in your amp.

Solid State Rectifier - For 5AR4, 5U4, 5Y3 Tubes

Top Contributor. Using a solid state rectifier will definitely tighten up rectifier sag. However, when using a solid state rectifier in place of a rectifier tube it is critical that you always use your amp's standby switch. Yes, you will still need to bias your amp when switching to a solid state rectifier.

This solid state rectifier is designed to replace the listed rectifier tubes to provide a stiffer power supply with less sag. Uses beyond it's intended purpose can not be verified. The solid state rectifier will raise the voltage slightly but not to levels of any great concern. We do not recommend that you use these without a standby switch.

It puts too much strain on your amp and could cause permanent damage. These are the same thing but made by two different manufacturers. This is meant to be compatible with all of the tubes listed in the description, however, the internal components are considered proprietary. If the radio in question doesn't have a standby switch, we would not advise using this rectifier, as it needs a controlled warm up time. Have a question of your own? Ask us here! Terms and Conditions.

Prefer browsing the desktop version?Users browsing this forum: MSN [Bot] and 6 guests. Local guitar shop had only a 5U4GB. I assume the 5U4 is faster to start, but can't find any ratings that say so.

Bad for the EL34s? I'm using the triode electronics supply transformer PA which has a 4A rated 5V heater winding, so I'm OK for it drawing a bit more filament 3A compared to 1. Should I get another GZ34? It'll be harder on the power supply caps.

The 5U4 takes 3 amps of heater current, but you're already on top of that. I'd use it in a pinch if there were no other options. If you've never replaced the stock power supply can cap, it's probably time to do that anyway. Strong bass does not corrupt the higher frequencies, giving a very different overall feel of the sound, one that is, in my opinion, quite unique.

I'm actually having to do this too in my rebuild, because all the GZ34's I have are junk The voltage drop won't be too much of a problem with the old transformer, since line voltages are quite a bit higher nowadays Therefore the finer electrons are also found in glass bottles.

New GZ34 will get ordered. What's the quality one these days? I have the cap board that mounts under the output transformer so I removed the original cap and added a socket there for the damper tube. Another thought might be to add diodes before your 5AR4 to take the strain off the 5AR4. I have this mod in several Dynaco 70's I own and haven't gone thru the rectifier tube since I put them in. Stay away from the JJ 5AR4 rectifiers as they just don't hold up.

A delay start? I like the idea. Playing with PSUD right now. I was just looking at the 6AX4 from a google search on the term 'damper tube' but I didn't understand the purpose until you explained it. Looks like it takes 30 seconds for the EL34s to draw proper bias current. About 14 seconds for them starting to draw. I'm glad I asked about this.Log in or Sign up. The Gear Page. Feb 27, 1.

Messages: Its for a fixed-bias mesa dual rectifier. Feb 27, 2. Messages: 4, If you bias with the 5AR4,you can sub in the 5U4 and not worry. The 5U4 has more sag and can be spongier feeling.

Feb 27, 3. Messages: 1, SwartyFeb 27, Feb 27, 4. That there is the problem. I'm fairly new to the whole amp tech world only a few months inand my amp is fixed-bias, with no pot for bias adjustment. What I suppose I was trying to get at is, would 5AR4s run a voltage that is within the safe range for regular Sovtek s?

Feb 27, 5. Those Sovtek s can take rather high plate voltages, so I would't worry about that aspect. But I would check the biasing, because the increase in plate voltage is going to change the power dissipation at idle. IMO Sovtek s sound better when biased a bit on the hot side, so it might turn out that you don't have to change anything in the bias circuit. But I would still check it. SheaFeb 27, Feb 27, 6. If your amplifier is designed for GZ34 you shouldn't have any problem running 5U4G tubes.

The power-up time of a 5U4 is much shorter than a GZ34 tube. Some will argue this is a bad thing, and I'll go along with that for the most part. The difference between the two times is probably as a result of the direct vs indirect heating of the cathode.

The GZ34 is generally accepted as the best vacuum tube rectifier made. Feb 27, 7. Feb 27, 8. Feb 28, 9. Messages: 30, Since the question was about changing from a 5U4 to a 5AR4, often this is ok especially in Mesas which tend to be biased cold.Read times. Running 5U4's versus 5AR4. S Clark Volunteer Posts: measurement? After blowing one of my 5AR4 on one of my old Knight KB amps, a friend and amp designer gave me a set of 5U4's to run in place of them.

What's the difference? Member Posts: A 5U4 will provide a lower voltage out, plus it does not slow start like a 5AR4. Can you say what the sonic result of the lower output voltage might be?

Quote from: JohnR on 10 Novpm. It's not the bias I'm worried about, it's the power supply. According to the 5U4 spec sheet, the maximum size of the first capacitor, if the first element of the power supply filter is a capacitor, is 4uF. Or if it does work, the 5U4 may arc over or have its life drastically shortened. Ok all you E. So with this bit of info, now can anyone tell me if running these 5U4's is a bad thing?

IMO, replacing an indirect heated cathode rectifier with a direct filament type is not a good move. The slow turn-on of the 5AR4 would give all of the tubes in the amp enough time to heat up before it starts conducting.

This, besides preventing cathode stripping, helps your filter capacitors too. If you look at the schematics, they state VAC on the rectifiers anodes. With the 5U4s you will have around 1.

Not nice when you have VDC and less rated capacitors in the filters. I wouldn't run the risk. Quote from: aerius on 11 Novam.

Several years, no problems. DerrO Jr.User Name Stay logged in? Rectifier tube 5AR4 vs. I'll assume it's Chinese in origin, but it seems to work fine. I have no complaints about it. Total power draw is probably somewhere around mA 61 mA per output tube plus 10 mA per side for the 12AT7. I picked up a couple 5U4GB tubes for dirt cheap, and I'm thinking of trying them out. Would anyone care to offer their opinions on the pros and cons of each? I think I have volts to spare.

I'm curious about the directly heated cathode of the 5U4GB vs. Does it really make any difference at the end of the day? You're correct on both counts This will give you a surge on the filter caps no load so be sure the caps can handle the surge.

5U4 vs 5AR4/GZ34

Regards, KM. You could always put a CL90 thermsistor on one of the transformer primaies. That should help out with the surge.

JD Quote:. I built Eli's "El Cheapo" push-pull design which is excellent sounding and "rolled" a bunch of rectifiers to try a tubed design in place of the the original solid-state setup.

Stunning sound. Mine arced above the max given by the spec sheet. Use a higher voltage secondary instead. Laid back mids, but nice detail with sax and breathy vocals. The bass was full -- a little too much so, almost "loose" in this application.

5u4 vs 5ar4

Overall, very easy to listen to, with very little sibilance on some of my borderline female vocal recordings. Bass was more under control, but the setup was less "involving. Leaner bass than all the above, but tight, clean sound overall. Here's the schematic I used for testing. Now, with all of that, I should add that I decided the original solid-state rectifier sounded the best in this amp, so I'm saving these tubes for future projects.

I have been using my simple se for well over a year now. Use the 5U4GB when I want to lower the voltage. Have standard recommended parts from the tubelab site and using the same Hammond transformer. Have had no problems with any of these rectifiers since getting rid of the standby switch. I think I might try the thermistor on the rectifier filament as per Eli's recommendation You should hear less differences between rectifiers in the SE amp since the current draw is more constant.I've got an old Heathkit AA stereo tube amp.

Apparently these tubes are interchangeable but I can't find anything to back this up. What is the best replacement? I am thinking of a Mullard.

Any suggestions? Does anyone have an extra to sell to this forum member, because I would rather deal here than eBay! However the manual states" this tube the 5AR4 may be replaced with the 5Y3 rectifier tube; but note, a difference in performance may be heard, the 5AR4 performs better than the 5Y3 when operating voltage is low".

Some maintain they can hear a difference between various 5AR4's and some say there is no difference only improved longevity with a Mullard.

5u4 vs 5ar4

I do not have an extra one, but here's my. I have not had good luck with Sovteks. Quiet no buzzingand pretty reliable so far. Available at a variety of places, but I've always had some decent experiences with Tube Depot on line. From what I can find on the Heathkit AA, you will be fine with using either tube. But these tubes do have different ratings, so it is always best to use caution when swapping rectifier tubes.

Things you will have to consider are:. There are also differences in the performance of the two tubes. The primary difference that you may hear is due to the internal plate resistance. For the 5Y3, this resistance is around Ohms. This will result in lower plate voltage and lower total output power. This will give you a compression effect, since there will be more voltage drop during loud signals, than during low level signals.

This compression will be much stronger using the 5Y3. This gives you what some people refer to as "bloom" during some of the notes. The voltage will drop during the initial attack, but then the plate voltage will rise once the signal level begins to trail off and the plate current decreases. For looking at tube technical specifications, www. Their Tube Data Sheet Locator is a great source to tube datasheets.

It also provides a list of substitutes for these tubes, which may or may not be useful. Very well described by Voodoo Doc in the earlier post. I think you can also use 5R4 as I think it has the same filament voltage. The only issue could be the first cap after the rectifier. Both 5Y3 and 5R4 would work better if the first cap is small; 10 mfd even smaller.

However, if the 5Y3 is not arcing then I guess the cap is small enough and not a problem in your amp. The 5AR4 does not have the first cap issues, and also has a slow start. Personally, I like the 5Y3 as the voltage drop gives some motion to the music.

Although the 5AR4 would provide more head room. I would just use current production. I've been playing around with the different tubes. I let the AA warm up about 5 minutes and hit the play on the cdp. I couldn't hear a difference even with the new tube. I had to leave for a while and left the amp, preamp, and tube cdp all playing on repeat.Fender Stratocaster Guitar Forum. Messages: 5, Reccomended or no? Fender guru has a vague answer about it, but I would assume they draw different current.

Any help?

5u4 vs 5ar4

Viking inLAJan 6, Messages: 2, WHat does that mean? Messages: If your amps tube chart calls for a 5u4gb use that tube.

5U4, 5R4, 5V4, 5AR4 & Solid State Rectifier Performance in Vacuum Tube Amplifiers

A gz34 could damage your amp if it calls for a 5u4gb. Yes Viking you can use a GZ34 as your rectifier tube. I've never had any issues. GZ34 will work fine with your amp. Bad MonkeyJan 6, Must be different voltage at least u would think? It means I'm watching waiting for someone more knowledgable than me to answer. I don't think it'll damage your amp, I've heard of plenty of people doing it with no harm done.

Let the biasing ensue. Thank you sir. I am too busy working on my amp, I just posted this question in an amp forum and this is the answer. The 5U4 is closer to a 5AS4, specs are 3 Amp 5V heater, 40uF max 1st cap, good for mA with an internal resistance of about Ohms causing a 44V drop across the tube at that mA current.

If you don't know the current draw then don't do it. The 5AS4 is a "forgotten" tube and can often be found dirt cheap. It is actually slightly higher rated than the 5U4.

Billy Penn's 300Guitars

I put one into a Fender Bandmaster in lieu of the 5U4 and it worked beautifully. Cheers, Ian. AlanJan 7, Age: 55 Messages: 1, Messages: 12, Plate voltage will be higher but transformer less stressed heater winding. All the best, Robin. RobinsJan 7, I was just looking into this, for my BF Pro Reverb.

GZ is going to have higher voltage. Will that hurt the amp? How high is it in that amp? Will it stress the parts, especially old parts?